The silicone brush swaps from a long one with paralel spaced bristles to a smaller one with bristles close together in a twisted pattern. Step one is designed to define the lashes and fan them out, and then the second for adding volume. I've tried it both ways, so trying step 1, then 2, and reverse and results are best the 1-2 method. Step one defines the lashes well, but my lashes become "undefined" again quickly, since as a regular formula this lacks the hold I need. Step two adds a good amount of volume. Using just step 2 straight away end up looking messy for my taste. It's a mascara that doesn't completely dry on the lashes, so touching my eyes quickly ends up a mess. It doesn't flake, but it can smudge.